"Mr. Oko, Welcome Back!" That was the sign greeting me as I climbed down from the train at Haridwar, the holy Indian city where the Ganges meets the plains. The trip was a detour from the usual direct run to Dharchula, in order to drop off gear with my rafting buddies in Rishikesh. Specifically, hiking boots and polypro longjohns for the guys at Red Chilli Adventures, who sent along the car and the cute sign.

We spent the past two days in lovely Laxman Jhula, the northern exurb of Rishikesh, about 20 miles up the road from Haridwar. The yoga/meditation scene is heavy here in north Rishikesh. While most tourists have embarked for warm points South, long-term India visitors remain camped along the holy Ganges, a green ribbon flowing down from the Himalayas at this juncture. Evening winds ring the temple bells, and though monkeys and stray dogs ply the streets for dropped snacks, occasionally snarling at one and other or passersby, the vibe remains relaxed and curiously devout as the town is a destination for pilgrims of all stripes.

It's been nice to get a breath of fresh air after Delhi.

Yesterday, we wandered the slender alleys, window shopping and ate lunch on a primitive rooftop cafe; in the evening we caught up with my guide friends at their pad in the paddy fields outside of town and ate a scrumptious North Indian meal of kofta (vegetable balls) in a spicy tomato sauce and mashed okra. Served on the side were warm roti, flatbread, kept soft with a light coating of ghee, clarified butter. We sat late into the evening talking about politics, film, love and the environment, the conversation winding down about midnight. On our way home, C. and I stopped to admire the stars, and while picking out constellations were treated to a streaking meteor.

We slept peacefully with the wind sweeping down from the mountains, carrying the sound of the Ganges through the cracked window above our door. Now, C. must return to work in Dharchula, a two-day journey from here. We've been informed that our rooms have been prepared, and I'm hoping that it all goes smooth on the journey. In just a couple of hours, we'll leave the peaceful clime of Rishikesh behind for an overnight train, and trade the quietude for the rough beauty of upper Kumaon, where we'll be for the next few weeks.

We're still adjusting to being back in India; without a doubt this brief Rishikesh sojourn has helped, though the hard part remains ahead. With 6 months to burn, however, I am cooking up plans a plenty, and look as forward to laying new tracks as revisiting the old.