13.1.05

In the steamy South of India, well away from the tsunami wreckage. Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka from this perspective, though, do appear to be working their way towards recovery. The long-term impacts cannot yet be judged, and it's daunting to consider what will happen to orphans and other survivors when this tragedy fades from the headlines. But talk of rebuilding infrastructures, and reconstructing local communities and bringing back the tourists is already bubbling out of the morass. Meanwhile for the fishing communities of India, there has been a double dose of pain, for not only has their greatest patron the Sea emerged as an antagonist, but many Hindus who ordinarily eat fish are reluctant to consider the gruesome possibility of a eating animals that have been feeding on human corpses. The destruction of livelihoods is almost as damaging as the destruction of property.

Without being too indelicate, however, I have ascertained that the fish caught locally near Calicut, Kerala, are far from the disaster zone, and therefore took advantage at lunch today to consume a few of our piscine friends. A delicious sweet rice and tangy curry sauce were served alongside plates of mussels, squid, small shrimp and a boney "Black" fish, lightly breaded and fried with chilies. The owner of the restaurant laughed at our gusto as we tucked into the meal, and I made a mental note to remember to observe the sea even more carefully than usual next time I visit the beach. Needless to say, this feast was delicious -- and cheap. For three bucks American, Christina, my Mom -- who joined us for a two-week tour yesterday -- and I ate more seafood than our bellies could comfortably hold.

Unfortunately, getting here was the usual hell, as we had to pass from the chill mountains to the crowds of Delhi to the upscale confines of the Mumbai airport, and finally to Kerala, where literacy is high and the birthrate low. The trip took two days of hard travel, including a 10-hour jeep ride, overnight train journey and two-flights totaling 4 hours in the air. One woman who heard our ordeal, squirmed and then said -- it's easier to reach Kerala from New York than Dharchula. It is, of course, which is one of the reasons we're going to stretch this Southern swing up through Mysore and back through Bombay/Mumbai before heading for the hills again.

Modern India is in full force in these parts, with cell phones proliferating and cyber cafes everywhere. Power outages are virtually unheard of in Kerala, and the kids are watching DVD's of all your favorite Hollywood action heroes to boot. In line for check-in at the Bombay airport, we stood behind a group of college-aged Indians on their way to Goa, and I was struck by how similar they seemed to the sorority chicks and frat boys we run across back home in Austin. Cute as heck, with perfect make-up, and a sense of entitlement which makes me think they might have more in common with Young Americans than the typical youth of their own country. Another puzzlement of the mysterious East....

Running low on gas and inspiration, I sign off here. Updates sometime next week.

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